French active-ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed to address a deficiency in ferritinophagy — the mechanism that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs — observed in menopausal skin.
Silab reports that a novel modelling study of menopausal skin revealed a shortfall in this mechanism. The company states that deficient ferritinophagy during menopause reduces bioavailable iron, a lack it links to premature skin ageing. Silab calls this phenomenon metallo-ageing and says it is amplified by UV radiation, which promotes degradation of iron/ferritin complexes and leads to a massive, uncontrolled release of iron, causing significant oxidative stress.
Mechanism and reported effects
Metallomia is said to work by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating the provision of iron and restarting key epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active is also reported to limit oxidative stress under UV exposure.
Silab states that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-ageing. In the company's studies, Caucasian volunteers showed revitalised skin from 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. Applied before UV exposure by Caucasian volunteers, the ingredient was reported to prevent lipid peroxidation and to limit the appearance of redness within hours after exposure.
Sourcing and formulation
For Metallomia's development, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which it notes are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has established a traced supply chain with French partners, validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended at a dose of 0.5% to 2% in all care products intended for menopausal skin. It is available as an aqueous solution, which the company says makes it easy to formulate. Silab states that the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations, including those of Europe, the USA, China and Japan.